Cross Canada Stage 1. Overview

The pink dots are this years expedition Across Canada.

The start of the trip below the Rocky Mountains a few kilometres downstream of the Saskatchewan River Crossing. Alberta.

The kayak was an Epic 18.

Saskatchewan Crossing in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. I started just downstream from here.

Looking back towards the Rocky Mountains, Alberta, Canada.

My first nights camp. My kayak was an Epic 18. My stove was a MSR Whisperlite Stove. My pots were titanium.

It rained heavily in the night and the river rose 2 metres at least and logs were being swept down the river. The tent is a Wilderness Equipment Second Arrow (by Sea to Summit).

The river rose over night sending hundreds of logs and big trees down the river.

Being chased by huge logs and trees after the river flooded.

A burning coal seam beside the river. I was paddling over 100kms a day in the Epic 18 with the current.

I wore a Hydraulics Ocean Pro PFD, a Kokatat TecTour Goretex Anorak in the colder wetter weather.

Paddling through Edmonton. Alberta.

The river flooded so finding high camp spots were difficult to find. This cabin would be underwater in the next day or two. I used an Epic Paddle for much of the trip.

Camped near the end of the Saskatchewan River after paddling about 1650kms. I used a Seal Line Baja Deck Bag to store items needed on the day. The hatch lids in the Epic 18 kayak were very water tight and no water got into the hatches.

Camped in the swamp.

Lake Winnipeg on a calm day.

Lake Winnipeg on a rough day.

Cliffs on Lake Winnipeg.

Lake Winnipeg Cliffs.

Eroded fallen trees on Lake Winnipeg.

A hot day on Lake Winnipeg.

Paddling up the Winnipeg River against the flow.

Paddling up the Winnipeg River against the current slowed my progress.

Winnipeg River shoreline.

Camped on one of the hundreds of islands along the Winnipeg River.

I wrote my diary every evening after finishing a hard days paddle.

A Winnipeg River Island

The Hammerbak Family. People along the way were extremely friendly. I was overwhelmed with their hospitality.

It was just fantastic paddling up the Winnipeg River and around all the islands. Even better having rock rather than mud to land on.

Alaine & Leonie join me for the second part of the expedition.

Alaine & Leonie arrived. Leonie will paddle the Epic Kayak and Alaine and I will paddle the Necky Nootka Plus Tandem. Entering the Lake of the Woods.

On the Lake of the Woods. The girls used sun hats to keep their skin young looking!!

Meeting some of the locals near Sioux Narrows. We used Werner Shuna paddles for this part of the journey.

It was hard having to paddle with two women!!

Portaging a beaver dam going upstream.

Leonie and I portaging the 50kg plus tandem kayak up a steep incline.

Many of the lakes we crossed narrowed down to rivers, which in turn many had waterfalls and rapids for us to paddle up or portage.

Alaine and I portaging the 'Height of the Land'. On one side of the portage the water flows into the Hudson Bay. On the other side the water flows into Lake Superior and the Atlantic Ocean.

It was hard work portaging over the logs. But we saw the funny side in all the portaging.

Waterfalls and drops along the Pigeon River, which flows into Lake Superior, stopped us and the early explorers and voyageurs from paddling to the lake. A portage trail was cut through the forest so paddlers could walk around the long section of rapids.

We dragged the tandem kayak over 20kms to Lake Superior to avoid big waterfalls and drops on the Pigeon River.

An island in Lake Superior. The water was so clear but 4 degrees.

The scenery in Lake Superior was just stunning. Paddling a Necky Nootka Plus using Werner Shuna paddles.

Leonie paddled my Epic 18 on the second part of the trip.

We paddled between the islands on Lake Superior and they were just beautiful.

Typing the blog at sunset.

The finish of the trip at Rossport on Lake Superior.

After the big trip. Sight Seeing Ottawa, Montreal, Quebec

The Parliament building. Ottawa.

The Parliament Library. Ottawa.

From the Parliament steps Ottawa

The locks on the Rideau Canal looking downstream. Ottawa.

The locks looking upstream. Ottawa.

Montreal River front.

 

Old Monteal.

 

St Lawrence River, Montreal.

 

Cycling around Montreal.

 

Quebec.

 

Quebec.

 

Quebec.

 

Queen Elizabeth arriving in Quebec.

 

Shopping in Quebec.

 

Its all come to an end. How sad.

Wednesday 21st September

Wednesday 21st September

It was misty and cloudy and although the lake had calmed significantly, there was still a swell. I took a run to the lighthouse and back. The lake was rough on the southern side and waves were pounding and dumping on the shores and bouldery beach. There was a sunny period but it didn’t last long.

The last look at Lake Superior before heading back to the mainland and the finish of Across Canada Stage 1.

We had breakfast, I went for a run and took my last swim in the cold lake before rugging up and taking off for our last paddle at 10.10am.

Part of the trail with hurdles that I used as a running track.

Having my last cold swim in Lake Superior. The lake is said to be 4 degrees.

Once out of the bay the sea was rough across the first exposed part between the islands and around the point of the first island. There was still a good swell running down the Wilson Channel but the wind was behind us so it was an easy paddle towards Rossport.

Our final destination is in the far distance.

The surf and waves were pounding the rocky shores to the west. The seas calmed as we started passing the last set of islands, Wilson, Channel, and the high cliff faced Quarry Island with a couple of small islands in-between. The mainland was ahead and we could see a road with traffic, a railway line and houses of Rossport.

We could now see the white of houses a few kilometres ahead.

It was a pretty finish to our trip but as always, it’s sad ending a trip. Although we had great fun, seen an enormous amount of stunning scenery and met a number of wonderful people, we hadn’t quite reached our goal. Never mind there is always another year.

The smooth rock shores of the mainland were now to our left. The railway line was running horizontal around the coast. Rossport which was only small was quiet. There were no boats moving and little traffic on the road. Holiday season had really past by. The only sound was someone hammering and building a new house not far from the jetty.

We paddled up to the jetty and boat ramp. There was no one around, it was quite weird. We paddled the kayak as close to the concrete ramp as we could so I could get out without getting my feet too wet.

In Rossport. Our last picture on the water. Oh how sad.

We landed and pulled the kayaks up the ramp and started unloading for the last time. It felt strange. I put the camera on a tripod and took a self timed shot of the three of us. The final photo of the trip and now it’s all over.

No more paddling. It's home time.

Our clothes were spread all over the place to get dry. We started packing our gear and getting ready for Dan to pick us up. It was hard to believe that we had totally finished our trip. No more paddling, no more portaging, It was sad really.

Dan arrived about 12.45pm and we soon had our gear packed tightly inside the car, we lifted the kayaks onto the roof rack and tied them tightly.

Dan drove out of Rossport and up the Trans Canadian Hwy back towards Thunder Bay. It was a scenic drive and we had views of Lake Superior most of the way. At Nipagon we stopped at Tim Hortons for a coffee, a salad roll, and two donuts. We were back in the real world. At this rate we would be stacking the fat back on. I lost about 10 kilograms and feel good with my body weight but I can see that I won’t be able to keep it off if I don’t keep exercising or watching what I eat and drink!

Back at Dan and Cheryl’s we celebrated the success of the trip with a beer and some wine.

Cheryl, Dan and the gang relaxing, after (for me) three and a half months of paddling across Canada.

Tuesday 20th September

Tuesday 20th September

It was a beautiful sunrise. I took a photo of it and crawled back into the tent for another 15 minutes.

Sunrise on Battle Island.

Once up, I went for a walk along a narrow path in the forest and found a rubbish tip. Old oil tanks, pieces of steel and general rubbish were covering a small area surrounded by a thick forest that was full of fallen and rotting trees. Part of the nearby forest the trees were tall and bare of any leaves, as if they were diseased.

Found on an island with only one short track!

A leafless forest.

We weren't sure why the trees were like this?

The forest behind our camp.

The forest floor around our camp.

We had breakfast and relaxed in the sun. We had decided to stay on the island for another day instead of moving to another camp spot closer to Rossport. We also decided that we would have dinner at the lighthouse at sunset.

Leonie called her partner Dan and they talked to each other on Skype.

We relaxed, walked to the shed with the old tractor and typed my blog. I went for a walk along the island until I could go no further. The cliffs stopped me from reaching the easterly point. Flowers, fungi, and dead wood littered along the forest edge. Coloured stones were hidden amongst the boulder beach and an old steel boiler or engine was lying in the shallow water.

Flowers on the forest floor along the shore.

Along the shoreline.

Along Battle Island Shoreline

Along the Battle Island Shoreline.

It turned cloudy and cool. I decided to go for a run along the track and trail making it a circuit. It was up and down and tested my leg muscles and breathing. It was a short run, only 3 minutes but I ran it at speed. I ran it three times trying to run faster each time. It felt good to have some fitness return. Although I had done a lot of kayaking, I haven’t really done any running or cycling for about 3 years so it was good to feel fitter again.

Having a day off from paddling we just wondered- who had the biggest muscles!!

It looks as if Alaine won the contest!!

Although it was still cloudy and cool and rain threatened  we still decided to walk over to the lighthouse to have dinner. It was stormy when we got there so we moved the table onto the veranda and I typed my blog and the girls played games.

The lighthouse buildings on Battle Island.

Dinner was cooked on the veranda and then we walked down to the cliffs below the lighthouse to eat it. It was cold on the rocks so we took shade behind a big boulder. We toasted our fantastic trip with a cup of wine.

Our last evening meal. Below the lighthouse.

It was near dark when we started our walk back to camp. As soon as we  got there it started raining heavily and strong winds tried to blow the tents down. We dived into our tents and our night outside was over.

In the very early hours of the morning I awoke to the tent shaking. I crawled out of my sleeping bag and got out of the tent to put in more pegs and tightened the guy ropes. With the tent shaking and constant rain rattling the fly it was difficult to sleep well.

Monday 19th September

Monday 19th September

It rained heavily in the night. Alaine was up firsthand she shouted out that it was misty. I took her word for it and did some more typing but when Leo got up I thought I had better as well.

It was good to see a brighter calmer day.

The sea conditions had improved dramatically, what a change in only a few hours. The reefs weren’t being pounded and there was a way out of the bay without having to dodge the reefs. We had thought we would be camping there another day but with the better conditions we decided to move on a little further.

Alaine was happier with the better conditions!

We had dried freeze potato, beans and sausages for breakfast. They were $11.50. It was the first time we had tried them and it may be our last!

The sun was trying to shine through and later the skies did clear but only to come back cloudy and then would turn sunny again. The forest behind was full of pine trees, many were bare of leaves, many had fallen and there was little undergrowth.

The trees behind our camp were bare of leaves.

By 11.00am we left the safety of the beach and paddled across the reefs that were being hammered by thundering breaking waves a few hours earlier. It was so different. The cove was quite long and it took some time to get out of it. We were told there were caves in the cove but we could only see a couple of small ones.

There was still a good swell running but it wasn’t breaking and much smaller than yesterday. Eventually we cleared Woodbine Harbour and started paddling along the coast. The rebound from the cliffs stirred up the water. The  was made up of rock, cliffs and coves. There were a few places where we could have hidden behind islands and shelter from the extreme weather. Luckily the weather wasn’t that bad.

Alaine was more relaxed with the conditions calmer. Or was she?

We had a little wind behind us and were able to travel fairly fast. Yesterday we were paddling hard and not getting anywhere. We could see a lighthouse ahead that was actually on the island that we were headed to. We had now decided to finish our trip at Rossport as Alaine wasn’t comfortable with the open water and beyond Rossport there were no islands to hide behind.

When we passed Morn Point, on the south-east of Simpson Island and started crossing Simpson Channel to Battle Island, the wave patterns were coming from several ways and shaking us around. The swell was coming from the south but the wind was coming down the channel from the north-west and there were waves bouncing off the cliffs.

Morn Point. South-East of Simpson Island.

Crossing the channel we could see the mainland for the first time since leaving Thunderbay. The lighthouse on Battle Island looked impressive sitting on a tall narrow rock that from a distance looked as if it had been man-made.

Leonie with Battle Island lighthouse in the background.

The crossing was bouncy but the closer we got to Battle Island it began to calm. We paddled around and into a cove on the northern side and was greeted with a stony beach with an old power boat. A jetty and a shed with a tractor behind it was across the cove. The shed looked freshly painted white and red.

We landed in full sunshine. It was so nice to have the warmth. We erected a clothes line and sat around and had lunch in the sun. Being fairly hot I decided to try a swim. I dived in and by golly it was cold. I immediately turned and swam back to shore. The water was freezing but I was pleased to have taken the dip as I at least knew how cold it was. I had a wash while I was wet.

As we were putting our tents up we heard a train’s horn in the distance. We all smiled, it reminded us of the trains around In the Rainy River region. It was the first train we had heard for ages. The mainland was about 10kms away.

As soon as we get to shore the washing line goes up.

Once settled in we walked along a track to the lighthouse. About 100 metres before the lighthouse, on a side track we came across an old vintage truck. It had a red bonnet and black mud guards. We admired it and moved towards the lighthouse and buildings. They too were painted white and red and looked very fresh and well maintained.

An old truck on Battle Island

There was a sign saying; Enter at your own risk. If the lighthouse had been in Australia the sign would probably say; Keep Out Government Property.

The views from around the grounds high on the cliffs were stunning. There were three different views and they were all special. We walked onto the heli-pad and then onto a cliff and took photos of the lighthouse from the south side. We followed a concrete path to the rocks below the lighthouse which was perched on an amazing high towering rock. It was an interesting visit.

The lighthouse from the south-west shore.

The Battle Island Lighthouse.

To the north of the lighthouse. The mainland in the far, far distance.

We walked back to the camp along the track between the cliffs, the trees and the hanging moss. On our return the sun was blocked out by the trees and the chill was waiting for us.

I sent a text to Dan and he confirmed that he was going to pick us up on Wednesday at 12.30pm. Being only 12 kilometres from Rossport we didn’t have far to paddle. I did some typing to catch up on my blog. It had been hard to keep it up to date.

As ducks landed in the quiet bay it seemed strange that our trip will end in two days time.

Sunday 18th September

Sunday 18th September

The wind picked up in the night and the lapping waves nearly reached our tents. I walked to the entrance to the cove and checked the water conditions. It was certainly a lot worse than we entered it so I knew we were going to be tested today. It wouldn’t please Alaine to know that it was going to be much rougher conditions so I didn’t make a big deal of it. I quietly told Leonie that it was going to be rough and that she should attach the sponsons on the side of the kayak. The sponsons would help with stability when blown up.

We started paddling out of the cove about 10.45am, destination Woodbine Harbour, a cove only 8kms away. As soon as we started paddling out of the cove I knew that we were in for an interesting and exciting paddle as the swell was up and the lake was full of confused waves and breaking waves. Alaine took a few pictures on the way out but the pics didn’t really reflect when it was truly like.

Leaving the cove.

We continued along the shoreline at a fairly slow pace, although we were working hard against the strong wind. The waves was hitting us broadside so every time we saw one coming we would quickly change course to hit them slightly head on.

Leaving the cove.

When we left the shoreline and started the open crossing I was hoping the waves would start to have a regular pattern, but they didn’t. It was still very rough. The swell must have been 2-3 metres high but it was the combination of the confused wallowing waves, the breakers and the swell that made it so rough. The Necky tandem was so stable I felt at home in such conditions and even Alaine later said that she too felt safe. Although we were very stable here were a few waves that tried hard to rotate us horizontally and vertically. I had to work with the waves and know and go with their fluid aggressive nature.

The lake was big, the water cold, the clouds were threatening and the conditions were getting rougher.

The conditions needed advanced skills to stay upright and Leo was handling them very well. She looked quite comfortable in the kayak and there were lots of times when the kayak was only touching the water by a few feet. We had to stay close together but we also had to make sure that we were far enough apart not to crash together.

When the big waves came through we often crashed down and I was wondering if the kayak would stand the beating, the punishment. It wasn’t sinking so it must have been. Alaine was quiet in the back and I knew that she was getting saturated by the breaking waves. She had put on a lot of clothes so just maybe she wasn’t feeling cold.

The water continued twisting the kayaks around like corks. A huge breaking swell came through and Leo was sat on top of a breaker. I thought her time was up but she calmly kept control. I was impressed.

The closer we got to the next island the stronger the wind and the point of the island we were headed to, seemed to take forever to reach. There wasn’t much we could do but to watch the waves heading towards us from the southerly direction. From the south-west the waves had about 400 kilometres to generate their power.

The average temperature of the lake during the summer is about 4.4 °C. Lake Superior is the largest, deepest and coldest of the Great Lakes. Annual storms on Lake Superior regularly record wave heights of over 20 feet (6 m). Waves well over 30 feet (9 m) have been recorded. The lake was fed by 200 rivers.

As we got close to the shoreline the waves were lashing the rock shores. Don’t capsize now Leonie, I thought. As soon as we came opposite the bay I advised Leo to blow up her sponsons and so we rafted up to give her stability.

There was a big swell running into the bay and all I could see was breaking waves at the end. At that point I wasn’t even sure if there was a safe way in. In theory there should be! We turned our kayaks into the bay and started moving towards the end of it. The swells were big, even I was cautious. Ahead of us were deep holes caused by the swell and looking quite frightening. We had to be careful not to be picked up by one of these big swells and go surfing down it and lose control. I advised Leo not to allow herself to be accelerated by the swells but to back off or even paddle backwards to let the swell roll in. This worked well.

The deep holes continued moving into the bay but luckily we were able to avoid being part of one. Even half way in, I still wasn’t sure if there was a safe route. The waves were pounding the reef at the bottom leaving a confused mass of whitewater.

Then I saw a safe passage and headed over to the left and we were soon sheltered by an indent in the shoreline. It was a relief to be there. Leo all smiles said that she was pleased that she had the sponsons on as they gave her a lot more stability and she felt quite safe. I mentioned to Leo that if she had being tested for her advanced sea kayaking skills, she would have passed it.

A reef inside the cove.

There were still a couple of reefs and an island being slammed by waves preventing us from getting in the cove but I could see a way around them. We paddled between a reef and an island and managed to get to the calm waters although the wind was still strong and we could hardly move against it.

Sheltering behind a reef inside the first part of the cove. It was good to get out of the stormy conditions.

We first checked a beach on the eastern side but it wasn’t any good so we went across to the west side where we could see a clearing in the trees. Then we saw an old broken table, a fireplace and some camping spots. It was nearly like paradise and to Alaine who didn’t like the open crossings, it wasn’t nearly paradise, it was paradise!!

It was so good to find a good camping spot and be out of the gale tossed, cold lake.

Within minutes I erected a clothes line up, we got into warm dry clothes and set up our tents. It was early but we intended going no further today. You just know when you shouldn’t push your luck. Thirty minutes later we were eating hot soup and tortillas and were soon on track to feel at home at our sheltered campsite.

It was time to have some hot soup.

About 500 metre away the waves were still crashing on the reefs at the bottom of the first part of the bay. It was enjoyable watching the conditions worsen while being safe and snug on land. The rain started to  increase and it soon chased us into our tents. I took the opportunity to do some typing but an hour or so later it had stopped and Leo had a fire going.

The waves were still crashing at the entrance to our cove.

As we had a late lunch we decided on a light nibbly dinner. It was too cold, wet and wintry outside to stay near the fire so we soon retreated back into our tents.

I rang Dan on the satellite phone to see when he had time to pick us up. The reception wasn’t good and he was driving home from across the US border in the thick fog after a day diving on a wreck in Lake Superior. We lost contact so I sent a text message. Within minutes he replied so we communicated by text rather than talking.

The rain had set in for the night. I wrote in my diary and also typed it into my iPad. I wrote my diary in a book every night. Then if I had enough battery power I would type it all out on my iPad. The trouble was being in the wilderness my battery didn’t last too long.

Although we were in a bay the water was washing up the beach several metres and it sounded as if it could be getting close to the kayak so just before I retired at 11.30pm I went out and checked to see if it had been washed away….It hadn’t!

Saturday 17th September

Saturday 17th September

The morning wasn’t so cold and for some reason, the girls were up before me! It could have been the beautiful sunrise and the the sight of a slightly misty morning that attracted them.

Sunrise in the stony cove.

I soon grabbed the trowel and walked over the small, round boulders and found a quiet place in the forest. The mist was still rising from the water and the sun was reflecting on the leaves of the trees making them sparkle as the light fed through the branches.

Behind our tents the waning moon was shining bright through a gap in the pine trees. The berries of the mountain ash were a rich red against the perfectly clear blue skies of the early morning. It looked as if it was going to be an ideal day.

Mountain Ash, spruce trees and the moon mix together.

As the sun rose right across the bay, with nothing to break its warming rays it made our breakfast so much more enjoyable. For some reason Leo was lagging again. I wasn’t sure why but we were always waiting for her to launch. Sometimes it was only a few minutes, other times it was for much longer. In the early days it was her iPad that distracted her. She was receiving and sending emails to people at the kayak club, kayak club business, as well as sending emails to her family. That meant we were waiting a lot. When we had no reception she was able to focus more on the trip. It was difficult to understand why you would want to get away in the wilderness and then spend hours replying to emails!

The day was just perfect as we started crossing the bay towards Fluor Island. As I was looking towards a nearby beach I noticed two sandy wolf trotting along it. We stopped and then turned our kayaks towards their direction. They immediately noticed us and trotted off into the forest. We waited a few moments but they didn’t return.

There was much less smoke coming from the mountain on Fluor Island than the day before. The wind was light and the water to the east was sparkling because of the sun’s rays. We paddled around the cliffs of Starke Point, where water was swaying back and forth off a reef without any trouble at all. There were gentle breakers hitting it but they were much friendlier than the ones we had by-passed on other days.

Starke Point Cliffs on Fluor Island.

After paddling a few kilometres on the east side of Fluor Island we paddled between Fluor and Willard Island. It was quite beautiful, but a little further, as we paddled between a few smaller islands the scenery turned from beautiful to stunning. When we stopped on one of the small islands for a pee we were able to check out the animal poo, animal tracks and a few different kinds of bushes, vegetation and big mountain ash trees. Not only that, we were able to pause and get the most fantastic view of our route ahead, which had some rich orange cliffs beckoning us.

Between the small islands near the bigger Fluor Island. It was stunning.

It was such a lovely paddle heading towards the orange cliffs. Arrow like spruce trees and the odd birch tree thickly covered the top. In the far distance beyond the cliffs was a high mountain range with a line of cloud floating above its ridge. It was virtually the only cloud in the sky.

Leo slipped ahead as we took several photos of the area. It is surprising how much distance a kayak can travel when we stopped and took a photo. Sometimes I felt guilty taking so many photos, but it is so great to look back and relive those moments. I often felt a little glum when I know I should have taken a photo, but I didn’t. Today was certainly one of those days that we just had to take photos.

Approaching the reddish cliffs.

The colourful cliffs were on an island a few hundred metres west of Irvine. As we got closer it was again one of those times when I felt so lucky to be living and being able to explore places where few people go. All three of us could have walked on water with joy and excitement at that moment. I have experience this feeling so many times before when I explored alone, but it was good to be able to have others share the same experience and the thing about Alaine and Leonie they did appreciate the beauty around them.

We approach the cliffs and an island with a cabin on. Seeing the vista through the gap in the islands was also something special but for me it was the orange cliff, which was probably caused by lichen, that was the better spectacle before us.

We passed between the cliff and Irvine Island and it was like walking into another room with another much different but beautiful scene from all angles. We paused for a few moments and stared as the scene was on a much wider scale and we couldn’t capture it all in our camera lens. There was a gap to our north between Fluor Island and another small island revealing what looked like a beautiful sand bar and the wider Blind Channel beyond it. It would have been good to explore further but it wasn’t on our track as we had to head to our north-east.

On the same small island called Tisdale, at it’s eastern end we could see a tree that looked as if it had been shaped with a large wide ball on the top, like the bushes you see in people’s garden who have trimmed them. When we passed the eastern end of the island it was actually two different trees. Nearby the island was composed of low smooth rock cliffs, some rolling like hills.

As we paddled over to Newash Point on St Ignas Island and into a more exposed part of the lake Alaine became worried because Leo was more than 50 metres ahead after we stopped to take photographs. I wasn’t particularly worried as the lake wasn’t that rough, but for Alaine it was a big thing and I think she thought I didn’t care so I could feel a little tension between us. As we arrived at Newash Point Leo had allowed us to catch up as the islands and reefs off the point caused a lot of breaking waves. We thought we might have to go around all the islands but at closer inspection we were able to sneak through a reef and the first island allowing a shorter course into the bay between St Agnace, Agate and Bowman Islands.

No sooner had we paddled into the bay we could see several reefs breaking inside it. We were easily able to avoid them. There was also something like a gate and a bench on the shoreline. Rick had marked a camp site on my map around the next point so we headed to it to have lunch. As we rounded the point, where waves were breaking on a reef, we could see a Canadian flag flying high on the steep hill over to the west. It was above the cliff line, but below the tree line. We were puzzled why such a flag would be up there.

The cove was calm and it had a high steel flag pole with the Canadian flag flying at the end of a sand spit. We paddled to it and another smaller cove appeared with a big boat and three or four cabins snuggled in the trees. It was just an amazingly protected harbour.

We paddled around the cove looking and landed next to the jetty which the big boat was tied up to. I jumped out and had a quick walk around but there seemed to be no-one there. It was lunch time so we pulled our kayaks up the shore and enjoyed lunch on the beginning of the jetty. The boat was similar to what we had seen a couple of days before. It also appeared that the cabins in the cove were used for groups, maybe fishing groups.

A cove on St Ignace, opposite Agate Island.

Our visit to the cove was very enjoyable and as we left it and paddled across Squaw Bay we could see a building at the end of Bowman Island. The wind had picked up and it pushed us quickly towards the buildings. When we passed them there was no one there.

Within a couple of kilometres we were leaving the shelter of Bowman Island and the wind picked up as soon as we passed Dupuis Point. Once we started crossing the exposed lake I could feel Alaine getting anxious as Leo was surging forward at times. The wind increased and the lake became rough with the waves washing and wallowing in all directions but mainly from the south.

We passed by the tiny Nest Island and for a few moments we were sheltered form the bigger waves coming from the south. Being less than 100 metres long our shelter was short lived. Luckily it wasn’t too many kilometres to Hope Island and Armour Harbour where we would get some shelter from the southerly winds.

We were now following the rugged and mountainess St Ignace Island which was about 22kms long by about 12kms wide and has over 100 big and small lakes. With the wind getting stronger the islands off Ignace were going to give us some shelter.

As we paddled to the north of Hope Island and into Armour Harbour passing Hope and along Armour Island the water calmed and Alaine started to relax. The shores along Ignace were high, with cliffs dotted along it at different heights and with colours that were hard to imagine how they developed. Many of the trees between the cliffs were turning yellow given some indication the fall was on it’s way.

Leonie paddling the Epic 18 in the calm of Armour Island.

A few cabins came into view. Some of them were quite hidden in the trees but we didn’t see any one around. The wind was increasing so we checked for a campsite at the bottom of the bay in one of the small coves. There was a unusual hexagonal cabin hidden in the trees but the beaches were too narrow and stoney. Although the view of the Harbour was quite stunning and we would have been able to watch the sun set, camping there wasn’t possible.

Mc Nab Harbour was our target for the night but to reach it we had to go out into the exposed water again and paddle along the coastline for a few kilometres. I was hoping that the conditions out in the open lake were going to have calmed or Alaine would not be in a good mood by the time we reached it. Unfortuntely it was rough so we bounced up and down and got thrown about.

Reaching the cove we had to make sure we didn’t turn too early or the big waves would roll in and surprise us from the rear-side. We kept paddling until we were in the centre of the cove entrance and away from the breaking waves that were slamming onto the point. I told Leo to turned quickly in her boat as it was quite unstable and I didn’t want her being surprised by the waves.

The swell was quite high and we were in danger of them breaking when the water shallowed further into the cove. We paddled in taking care and keeping well away from the waves breaking on the rocks each side of us. There was a narrow entrance of calmer water which we followed in the cove and into the safety of the calm water. There was a black sand beach with a big slab of rock on the left side and high cliffs further back to the north. It was certainly a pretty cove.

It took us a bit of time to pick the exact spot on the sand to camp. I erected a washing line and Alaine sat on the sand with her head between her hands. She wasn’t happy being on the lake. Before we put our tents up the sand had to be leveled a bit to allow us to put the tents on a flat surface.

A cove in McNab Harbour

The sun was moving around to the west and it was about 7.30pm when the sun was blocked out by the trees. We all washed before we lost the sun and the I went for a walk to the cove entrance to see if the lake had got any rougher. It had but I didn’t tell the girls as I didn’t want to worry them.

We moved through the narrow gap to reach our camp in the cove.

Collecting water to purify.

The sky was full of aircraft jet streams with a few clouds creeping in. We were seeing so many aircraft jet streams now, it was a very busy sky above us.

As it became dark a small bat started flying by us often getting quite close to us.

Friday 16th September

Friday 16th September

The water was lapping up the beach all night and kept waking me up as it was so close. We were up at 8.00am just before the sun rose above the trees and cliff top. With the sun the morning was a lot warmer than the previous morning.

There were lots of islands ahead to explore. Note the rhubarb.

We paddled away down the channel and decided to check out the hut and sauna that Rick suggested as a campsite. A jetty with a broken back  greeted us. We pulled up beside it in the shallows and jumped out trying not to spend too much time in the cold water. The timber sauna was a classic. Inside there was a 2 metre timber seat and foot rest. There was a mirror, a bottle opener, buckets, stones and a wooden stove. We had never seen such a sauna. We still didn’t really know how it worked but it looked good and I’m sure it would be an amazing experience especially when it was freezing cold. We meddled around in the sauna for a while taking photos and checking it all out.

A jetty with a broken back.

The sauna in the middle of nowhere. Used by the odd fisherman who want to warm up.

Leonie and Alaine inside the sauna, although we didn't need to fire it up.

Next to the sauna was a hut that had a notice saying; Emergency Hut Only. In-between the hut and sauna there was a fireplace and a table. A track at the back of the hut led to the lake and a small cove. The cove was calm with not a ripple on the water but a cluster of round smooth boulders scattered in pockets giving the cove an artistic look. As I clicked a few photos I couldn’t help but feel that I was really living. Sometimes seeing the beauty of a simple scene gives me goose bumps, it gives me a sense belonging to my surrounds and great satisfaction that no other thing can give. For a time I was suspended in my own world, I looked and dreamt and wanted to share the experience, the scene with other people. Will they have the same feeling.

A magical moment.

At that moment Alaine brushed through the bushes and was faced with the beauty of the cove. She instantly fell in love with what she saw and said, isn’t this so stunning. How gorgeous, how lovely. For Alaine every bit of the countryside is usually beautiful in her eyes but from what I saw on her face, this was extra special.

We looked across the cove to where the rocks were scattered further out and where they lightly fronted an island about 100 metres away. Further beyond the cove, where the lake was equally as calm, there were other islands seemingly floating on top of the perfectly clear still water.

For a few minutes I was in a dream world, nothing at that moment was as beautiful as the silent cove which wasn’t as dramatic as the Rocky Mountains but it displayed a different kind of beauty and magic.

Back at the sauna we stayed around for a few more minutes before returning to our kayak seats and paddling away with a great feeling in our hearts.

We paddled across and between the narrow gap of Chapleau Island and an unnamed island. We were lost for descriptive words about the area. Although it wasn’t as stunning as some of the other spots, it was still something pretty special. This narrow channel led us between two other islands, Spain and Borden. This was even more picturesque, especially at the spot of a cliff that was riddled with pine trees that were popping out of the smallest of crevices. The rock was as colouful as a water colour painting of a rainbow. It displayed browns, white, orange and different shades of grey. It wasn’t huge but it was still beautiful.

Small cliffs between the islands.

Between the islands.

We moved around an island, which at a distance looked as if it blocked the channel. Beyond it, the channel widened and led us to where a large rock slab with no trees formed a campsite. In a small cove beside it in the water were the remains of machinery, a large steel pulley wheel, a boiler and other steel pieces.

Old machinery left by bygone miners.

Circling the cove we took pictures of the machinery and then moved through a couple of tiny islands in the channel between Borden and Lasher Islands. The scenery was still pretty awesome with pockets of scenery that was even more special.

We entered another bigger channel and headed north with the wind behind us. Now the waves were crashing on the cliffs and rock on our left hand side. The wind had now picked up and we had less shelter from the islands. We passed a gap between Newton Island and Pugsley, then another gap between Pugsley and Coutlee Islands and another gap between Coutlee and the bigger Brodeur Island. Looking back up the gaps gave us a different view of the lake.

At the end of Brodeur we had decided to have lunch around the corner in the shelter of the wind, but when we rounded it and Alaine saw that we had to do a 6 kilometre or so open water crossing she didn’t want to stop but to carry on and get across the bay before the conditions became worse. In the far far distance we could see what looked like two red and white big boats but in fact they were houses on Lamb Island and part of the lighthouse structures.

Our target looked a long way, although it wasn’t that far. The wind though was picking up and making the conditions a little more testing. I had told Alaine that it was only a four kilometre crossing which it was to the nearer land but I wasn’t aiming for the nearest part and so it was further. She wasn’t happy that the distance we were going to was more than what I said. She also wasn’t happy when Leo got more than 10 metres from us and she at that time was much more than that. I couldn’t put Leo on a leash. She knew the consequences of capsizing in the freezing water. She may only last a few minutes in the water before she became hypothermic so we would have to quickly do a rescue so when Leo wasn’t right next to us Alaine worried. Leo and I couldn’t really understand why she did worry and at first I thought it was put on, but it wasn’t, Alaine had real concerns.

On this crossing I did get a little annoyed with Alaine’s concerns and I got a bit sharp with her when she asked me to get closer to Leo. The lake was rough but at that time, not so rough to worry about.

Otter Island which was on our left near the mainland peninsular was steep and rugged. I looked at it much of the time as it was quite spectacular. The lake started to ruffle and roughen as we approached Roche Point. A reef at the point where the water was rough made us take a wide track around the point. Leo at that stage was beside us and dancing around like she was in a rumba competition. Once behind the reef and into the shallows everything calmed.

The water calmed in the lee of the reefs.

Sheltered by some beautiful rock formations.

The water shallowed to a few centimetres before we hit the rock beach. We pulled the boats up but left them in the water. It was less windy behind the point. The beach was fairly steep and bouldery with drift wood littered about 6 metres away, near the top where it seems the water level had once been. It was hard to imagine though that the water level could get that high.

The Wall.

Amongst the rocks were colourful stones, pieces of old pottery and Alaine found a tiny piece of blue glass. At the top on the forest level we found a couple of old brown rusty cans although it was hard to know of what year they would have been left there.

Only 20 metres away there was a rich orange 10 metre long x 4 metre wide sloping wall. Two or so metres of its base was brown, like most other rocks and where it appeared the water may have risen up to at one stage was grey/brown. It was just an amazing piece of natural rock.

The coast line cliff and point was a mottle orange colour with a mixture of white and brown with a few pine trees and shabby bushes on top. The forest along the bouldery beach was scattered with trees changing colour to golden yellow and brown that were mixed with the deep green. The forests were certainly more interesting to look at now there was that change in colour. The shoreline that led to the next point had several patches of small rocky cliffs along the way.

The colourful coast.

We sat on the boulders enjoying lunch hidden away from the cold wind that was blowing around the corner. Alaine had bought a cucumber with us so I started lunch with cucumber and vinegar, one of my favourite dishes before having tortillas with cheese and tomato, cheese and jam and finishing with nuts and chocolate.

The lake was full of white caps with waves breaking closer to the shoreline and on the reefs. The conditions were getting worse but our paddling ahead was less exposed to the wind and swells.

The coastline had short sections of cliff all along it.

Our crossing to the next point which looked like a deformed chicken leg wasn’t as rough, although Leo’s boat was still dancing and occasionally  disappeared in the swells. Before we turned the corner at the point, the rocks, reefs and tiny islands off shore created breakers and disturbed water. We were soon sheltered by the point and found a truly amazing section of coastline with reddish sand.

Smooth rock and beautiful beaches.

From our kayaks the coastline along this section was really special.

The rock was smoother, less steep with sections of flat rock. The rock colour varied from a rich red, orange to a selection of greys. Between the rock were beaches that looked from the water just extraordinary. Our hearts pulsed stronger seeing such an unexpected magical place. For a few moments we looked on, paddled a little further and looked in amazement again. It reminded me of other places I have been in the world and they too were something special.

The rock steepened and formed a chasm, a narrow gorge that had a vertical wall on one side and a thick forest of trees changing colour on top. The beach at the bottom of the gorge was laden with big boulders, unfortunately it wasn’t suitable for camping but there were several better places along this section of shore.

To camp on one of the better beaches between the flat smooth rock would have been the best, but it was still quite early so I didn’t suggest it but I wished I had as my heart slumped when we moved on. We could have walked and run about on the flat smooth rock and just enjoyed being in such a nice place.

We started crossing the bay towards the north-westerly tip of Spar Island. A fire was ablaze on one of the further islands. A concern if the fire jumped to other islands. We could see some amazing beaches, one more pink than yellow, but at closer inspection they were rocks or boulders.

A fire on Fluor Island in the distance.

Only an hour or two earlier I had commented on the lack of eagles on the lake, then all of a sudden at a rock outcrop that fingered out into the bay there were four eagles, two on the rock and one in the air and one in a tree. They were a little too far to get a close up picture with our basic cameras but it was so good to see them take off, glide, flit and fly.

The sound of a helicopter started to get closer. We tried desperately to spot it flying over the hill. Leo thought she had spotted it but it was another eagle soaring above a high hill in the distance.

With Fluor Island being on fire I didn’t think it wise to go to the campsite that Rick suggested in a narrow channel just north of us, just in case the smoke was drifting towards the camp. Instead we started looking around the area close by, but many of the beaches that looked beautiful from a distance were made up of big boulders and impossible to camp on.

A beach in a bay opposite Spar Island took our fancy so we paddled to check it out. On closer inspection it was all boulders but there was a small section that had smaller stones that we could camp on, rather than big boulders. We had detoured and we hadn’t seen anything better in the area so we decided to stay.

Within minutes we had a clothesline erected for our wet clothes. Being in a westerly corner of a bay meant that we would lose the sun sooner than later as the tall spruce trees would soon block it out and when that happens a chill soon creeps in.

At least camping on stones we don't get sand in our tents. Drying my gear.

The boulder beach was quite hard to walk on. It was full of rotting timber at the top of it. A clear patch above the beach was quite pretty and seeing a carpeted area of moss covered rock undisturbed meant that no-one had been there for sometime. Amongst the rock were more rotting timbers, red berry plants and a whitish heather. Beyond the clearing the forest was thick and intermingled with dead rotting trees.

The stones were carpeted with moss.

Behind our tents the forest was blooming with red mountain ash berries, the changing colours of leaves and white mushroom shaped fungi growing on the large dead branches. We thought our surrounds were special but for a botanist this area would have been like heaven.

Some of our wet gear was spread along the boulder beach and moved every few minutes to chase the sun. The boulder beach was like four rolling hills that had been created by storms and wave action when the lake was at different water levels.

Our campsite on the rocks.

Thursday 15th September

Thursday 15th September

It was bitterly cold when I ventured from my tent at 8.00am, the girls took longer to rise. The trees behind us were blocking out the sun so we weren’t able to take advantage of its warmth. We were well wrapped up and taking off our gloves to work with fiddling things wasn’t an option. The sun started to shine on the western part of the cove. We could see the sun creeping our way but it wasn’t going to reach us before we left. Instead, when we were eating breakfast we walked along the shore to meet it. What a different it made.

It was much better weather out of the lake this morning.

Alaine and I were ready well before Leo and it was just to cold to stand there and wait for her so we leaped into the kayak and paddled and explored the cove. On the western side someone had started making a camp in the forest, but it looked too uneven to camp on. We paddled outside the cove and the conditions were amazingly different from the previous day.

What a difference a day makes. Leaving Horseshoe Cove.

After 20 minutes Leo was still on shore and we were still paddling in and out the cove trying to keep warm. When we did get going at 11.00am we moved around the corner and paddled between some islands that gave us shelter. Before us was a yacht tied to a jetty, a big shed, a flat grassed area and a cabin with smoke coming out of it’s chimney. It looked just great and the area was kept neat in a beautiful part between the islands. It would be nice to live there all summer.

We crept closer to the property and a man with a dog started walking our way so we stopped to have a chat. Bud Saunders said he was about to leave the island but was waiting for the weather to get better to motor over to the mainland and take everything out. He said the channel we were in had been one big mass of waves in the last few days. His dog was itching to get into the water, but Bud said, he had sores on his head so he was trying to stop him from swimming. He said his sores had healed but it had recently been rubbing the sores with his paws so they were exposed again.

The Papps (twin hills) in the distance.

We said our goodbyes and continued our trip through the islands passing an island with several cabins. By 1.00pm we were ready for lunch so we stopped between some rocks and behind a rocky shore in the shade of the wind. We had so much gear on it was hard to move or go to the toilet.

Lunch time.

The sound of a motor got louder and a few minutes later a pretty big boat motored by, between the islands about 600 metres away. It looked more like a Indonesian smugglers boat but we were later told it was a typical Lake Superior fishing boat.

A channel through the islands.

With a full belly we moved off through some islands on our way to Swede Island which meant we had to do another open crossing. Our route between Bennett, Barclay and Number 10, and the Macoun Island wasn’t quite rough as the bigger crossing we did the previous day. Over to the west the hills called the Papps, which we had been seeing along our way were changing appearance. From the south they looked like a pair of women’s boobs, the right one being a better shape but as we passed them from the west the left one was looking more firm and well shaped. There was a high hill to the left of them and smaller hills on tne right of them. The hills which were quite bare were in a perfect straight line, lying in a north-westerly direction. They kept my attention for some time!

One of the cliffs on one of the islands.

Swede Island and its two neighboring islands featured some high hills and their own special rows of cliffs. Once inside the channel it was very calm and we were able to view the cliffs at close range. We were given the location of a hut nearby but after seeing a pleasant campsite in the channel we decided to stop there. We had good views down the channel to the south and the north. The sun was still high so we were able to feel its warmth for a little time longer.

At our campsite we were able to see the beautiful scenery down the channel to the north and to the south.

Only metres away was a clump of rhubarb, well it certainly looked like rhubarb but we weren’t quite sure why it was growing on that stony beach. The cliff opposite which was interspersed with pine trees stayed in the sun until it set, but unfortunately the pine trees nearby to our west soon shaded us and a chill crept in.

The girls happy to be on shore and relaxing.

A large brown and white gull circled us and within minutes became braver and landed a few metres away. We would move around camp and it would take to the air and then circle us and land again. It got closer and closer until it was only two metres away.

The stars in the night sky were just beaming with brightness.

Wednesday 14th September

Wednesday 14th September

It was dark and my body didn’t really want to get up but I had to. 6.30am wasn’t that early as we used to get up at 6.30am all the time but with the change in time zones and it being pitch black, it certainly felt too early.

We had breakfast and started loading Dan’s car. Outside it was cloudy and windy. With the weather forecast in the area having a gale warning it was too risky for us to paddle the 23 kilometres from Thunder Bay to The Sleeping Giant but we had to start paddling otherwise we would be in Thunder Bay for several days, and we didn’t have the time to spare for that.

Dan was prepared to drive us around to Silver Islet on the Sleeping Giant so we didn’t have to make the dangerous 23km paddle. Although Alaine was happy with that decision, she really would have been happier on shore and not paddling at all.

Cheryl left for work and about 45 minutes later we were ready to go. I was a little sad that I was breaking my journey and not paddling that 23kms, but at this stage it was better to be paddling on the lake rather than waiting in Thunder Bay for the weather to get better and that wasn’t likely to happen.

It was cold outside, real cold, in fact extremely cold and I had only put my sandals on so my feet were freezing. When Dan stopped at Tim Hortons for a coffee I managed to change into my runners which warmed my feet.

Before leaving the city entirely, Dan stopped at the Terry Fox lookout so we could get a good view of the city and lake.

Terry Fox lookout. Thunder Bay.

From Wikipedia-
Terrance Stanley “Terry” Fox CC OD, (July 28, 1958 – June 28, 1981) was a Canadian humanitarian, athlete, and cancer research activist. In 1980, with one leg having been amputated, he embarked on a cross-Canada run to raise money and awareness for cancer research. Although the spread of his cancer eventually forced him to end his quest after 143 days and 5,373 kilometres (3,339 mi), and ultimately cost him his life, his efforts resulted in a lasting, worldwide legacy. The annual Terry Fox Run, first held in 1981, has grown to involve millions of participants in over 60 countries and is now the world’s largest one-day fundraiser for cancer research; over C$500 million has been raised in his name.

Fox was a distance runner and basketball player for his Port Coquitlam, British Columbia, high school and Simon Fraser University. His right leg was amputated in 1977 after he was diagnosed with osteosarcoma, though he continued to run using an artificial leg. He also played wheelchair basketball in Vancouver, winning three national championships.

In 1980, he began the Marathon of Hope, a cross-country run to raise money for cancer research. Fox hoped to raise one dollar for each of Canada’s 24 million people. He began with little fanfare from St. John’s, Newfoundland, in April and ran the equivalent of a full marathon every day. Fox had become a national star by the time he reached Ontario; he made numerous public appearances with businessmen, athletes, and politicians in his efforts to raise money. He was forced to end his run outside of Thunder Bay when the cancer spread to his lungs. His hopes of overcoming the disease and completing his marathon ended when he died nine months later.

A view of Silver Islet near the Sleeping Giant mountain range.

We arrived at Silver Islet and drove down a narrow lane passing some very old timber homes. Some of them were original.

From the internet – Ghost towns: Silver Islet is another of Ontario’s best kept ghost towns. It is also one of the oldest. A one time silver mining town on the shores of Lake Superior, a huge deposit of silver was discovered around 1845. There was no easy access to the silver ore deposit for it was located on a small shoal under a limestone mesa called Thunder Cape. Initial efforts to mine the ore all proved futile. It was as though the volatile weather of Lake Superior was to deny entrance to the ore deposit for all time to come. Several decades later the battle was joined when a new owner acquired the property. Several breakwaters were built to contain the fury of the lake’s waters. They, too, were demolished by storms, ice surges, and even a freak tidal wave. Finally, a breakwater of rock and concrete was built that allowed miners to extract silver ore worth $3 million. In 1883, mining operations ceased for lack of fuel for the furnaces and water filled the shafts. Submitted by: Henry Chenoweth.

Dan followed the narrow road and stopped briefly to watch a deer graze in someones back yard. We moved on and drove to where Rick had a cabin above a cliff over-looking the ocean. One of the neighbours was soon there asking us why we were on someone else’s property. Dan eased his mind when he told him he was his friend.

The man said the locals wouldn’t appreciate us launching off the nearby beach so we headed for the government boat ramp near the store that was closed. We saw another deer on the way back.

Dan backed his vehicle down to the boat ramp and we started unloading. Although we had loaded many times before, this time we carried extra clothing and about 15 days of food. The extra clothing soon filled the spaces in our hatches, but we managed to stuff all the gear in.

The three of us all rugged up for the cold, windy weather. Silver Islet, Lake Superior.

A couple from British Columbia with two Necky Kayaks turned up and were going for a short paddle around the calm of the bay. It was still cold and the day wasn’t getting any hotter so we dressed in more clothes to compensate. I have never paddled in so many clothes before. I had two thermals, my lightweight cag and my goretex Kokatat paddling jacket with hood, my thermal bottoms, my Kokatat fleece pants and some over pants.

We had lunch, finished packing and said goodbye and thanks to Dan and took off with the freezing wind behind us. The wind soon blew us across the bay and into the rougher section that wasn’t as protected.

I could see Rick’s house on the cliff. When we were there looking out at the ocean earlier it looked pretty rough, now we were in it and it was rough. The wind was whistling and pushing us madly around the corner. Our hoods were firmly fastened as the icy wind was just too cold to have our ears exposed. The bay was very pretty, a beautiful beach, old houses, cliffs, it was spectacular, but the scene was soon gone as we were whizzed away by the wind.

I looked back frequently getting stunning views of the Sleeping Giant and Pie Island. Before us though were other great views of the islands ahead. Although the weather was wild, we were more protected from the bigger waves due to being between the islands, than if we were out in the big lake.

Looking at the backside of the Sleeping Giant.

We had a campsite spot on the mainland in Finlay Bay picked out that Rick suggested, which meant that our days paddle would be short and we wouldn’t be exposed to the rough seas, well not today that was. However, just before Middlebrun Island I asked the girls if they wanted to cross the bay and camp on Edward Island. Between Middlebrun and Edward though it was very exposed rough water and I did tell them that it was going to get rougher the further we went. At that particular time they didn’t seem to be too concerned and agreed to go. I was a bit surprised.

We left the protection of the shore, although it was still quite rough, and paddled towards Edward Island about 8kms away. Within minutes it did become rougher and even rougher after the next kilometre. Now there was no protection from an island or from the Sleeping Giant but it was easier to go forward than to go back.

The waves in the exposed water were so confused, it was like being on a mechanical rodeo bull, the waves twisted, turned, reared up and sank. Many waves surprised us and Leo was being thrown around like a cork. Even our big kayak was being thrown around but we had a lot more stability than Leo in her narrower Epic Kayak. Nevertheless she was handling the conditions very well and hung on.

Alaine was a little anxious in the back especially when Leo got more than 10 metres away from us. Two small islands that I thought we might get some shelter from was surrounded by reef and waves were exploding all over the place. We had to pass in front of them, the water getting no better.

We were now more than half way across the bay and for a moment or two, Cranberry Island a few kilometres away did seem to shield us from the NW winds for a very short time. But it wasn’t for long, in fact the seas got worse.

Alaine was still worried about Leo, although she didn’t worry about us despite the conditions as our kayak was really stable even in the rough stuff. I did however had to ensure I kept an eye out for any rogue waves that were popping up all over the place as the kayak needed to be positioned at the right angle when they exploded or when the wallowing of the waves twisted us around. Being in a horizontal tumble drier was quite an experience. It is important as an expedition paddler to experience rough seas and not get too complacent. I’m now 60 so it’s important for me to know if I have lost the skills and stamina that I used to have. At this point I didn’t think so, or if I had it was very little. Although the kayak was stable, it was hard to know if our skills helped us from capsizing. If Leo hadn’t have been as capable as she was, the Epic kayak would have capsized long ago. As I had found out, the Epic feels more unstable in flatter water, its stability seems to be much better in the rougher conditions.

And the conditions still got no better. Leo was apparently singing, I don’t know if it was nerves or if she was enjoying the experience. She certainly didn’t look too stressed. Hardscrabble Island, a kilometre or two off shore may have protected the cove we were about to enter if the wind was coming from the south-west but it was coming from the north-west so our cove wasn’t protected. In fact the waves became higher and confused as the water shallowed. Horseshoe Cove was within our grasp but the lake still threw a few rogue waves at us to the extent that I thought Leo was going to capsize. She saved herself, then another wave came but she controlled the kayak and by that time we were entering less confused water and the entrance to Horseshoe Cove. I took a photo but of course I missed the real action. We were keeping a safe distance from her so as to do a rescue if necessary, but we weren’t needed.

Going from the rough to the smooth of Horseshoe Cove.

Leo had smiles all over her face when we paddled into the calm of the cove. It was so different inside being protected by the wind. There was a narrow sand beach in the north-east corner so we paddled across to it. It didn’t give us much room to erect our tents but it was enough, although when the waves in the sheltered cove started surging later in the day the waves just about lapped onto our tent vestibules. In the night we ended up sleeping a metre from the short surging waves.

It was bitter cold when we landed and we just wanted to get out of our kayaking gear and into warmer clothes which we did straight away. I erected a clothes line between two bushes and supported it with driftwood and hung our wet gear out. It was good to be dry but we couldn’t function properly without our beanies and later our gloves on.

Our tents were soon erected and once they were up we had an instant home that would protect us from the cold, the wind and the rain. There is nothing so nice as crawling into a tent to get away from the weather.

Threatening clouds were passing over quickly. Behind them were more clouds, but at times the sun managed to break through for just a fraction of a second but they didn’t help warm up the night.